30 June, 2022

 

CLARE SMYTH'S ‘POTATO AND ROE’: TROUT AND HERRING ROE AND DULSE BEURRE BLANC 

This recipe comes from Michelin-starred chef Clare Smyth. The dish is a signature of Smyth's and is hugely popular at both of her restaurants, Core in London and Oncore in Sydney, Australia. The recipe below is included in her new cookbook Core, where she explains why it is so important to her.

"This is one of Core's most celebrated dishes, and one of my most personal. Growing up by the coast in Northern Ireland, I would eat potatoes every day. Potatoes are the taste of home - my aunt and uncle were, and still are, potato farmers on the North Antrim coast, wheter the soil holds onto all that minerality from the ocean. When I was younger, I would help them with seeding and harvesting, working against the creeping frost to make sure the crops avoided damage. Afterwards, we'd eat a few - boiled and served with only salt, pepper and butter." - Clare Smyth

WHAT YOU NEED

POTATO PREPARATION

4 medium Charlotte potatoes

100g butter

30g salted kombu

20g dulse, finely chopped

5g salt

VINEGAR REDUCTION

75g white wine

75g white wine vinegar

50g shallots, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, sliced

2g white peppercorns

3 sprigs thyme

POTATO CRISPS

2kg grapeseed oil

1 small Ratte potato

Vinegar powder, to taste

Salt, to taste

DULSE BEURRE BLANC

Vinegar reduction (above)

50g double cream

200g very cold butter, diced

Kombu and dulse (reserved from the potato preparation, above)

Lemon juice, to taste

Salt, to taste

ROE MIX

60g trout eggs

30g smoked herring eggs

10g chives, chopped

TO ASSEMBLE

Red vein sorrel

Sheep’s sorrel

Butterfly sorrel

Sorrel flowers

Rocket (arugula) flowers

Wild rocket (arugula)

Chive tips

WHAT YOU DO

Step 1: POTATO PREPARATION. Preheat a water bath to 98C/208F. Add the potatoes to a sous vide bag along with the butter, kombu, dulse and salt, then seal. Cook in the water bath for 1 hour until the potatoes are cooked through, then cool down in an ice bath. Once chilled, remove and separate the potatoes from the kombu and cooking liquid. Set aside. Top and tail the potatoes then transfer to a new sous vide bag with the cooking liquid. Seal and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours. Finely chop the cooked kombu and dulse and reserve for the beurre blanc.

Step 2: VINEGAR REDUCTION. Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan over a medium heat and reduce by half. Pass through a sieve.

Step 3: POTATO CRISPS. Preheat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 160C/320F. Peel the potato and slice to a thickness of 2 mm (1/16 inch) and deep-fry until golden, then drain on paper towels and season with vinegar powder and salt. Reserve in a dehydrator at 60C/140F.

Step 4: DULSE BEURRE BLANC. Reduce the vinegar reduction in a saucepan until it is a light syrup. Add the double cream, stir and let it come to the boil, then reduce the heat, add one-quarter of the diced butter and whisk gently, creating an emulsion. Repeat these last two steps until all the butter is added, then remove from the heat, add the chopped kombu and dulse, and mix. Leave to infuse for 5 minutes, then season to taste with lemon juice and salt.

Step 5: ROE MIX. Put the trout and smoked herring eggs into a bowl with the chives and mix gently.

Step 6: TO ASSEMBLE. Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil over a medium heat. Add the sous vide bag with the potatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Open the bag and transfer the potatoes to a tray to drain. Place a potato on a plate. Cover the top of the potato with the roe mix. Add the potato crisps so they are standing upright, then place all the herbs and flowers in between the crisps. Finish by pouring the dulse beurre blanc into a sauce jug. Once ready to serve, pour the beurre blanc around the potato.

Serves: 4 | Difficulty: Advanced |

Time: More than two hours, plus chilling time

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